All posts for the month April, 2017

Tips on How to Make Stenciled Window Frosting Using Rust Oleum Frosted Glass Spray Paint


The windows in our dining room are tall and skinny. We didn’t like at all the “window treatments” we found when we moved in the house. They just made the room appear darker than it was and uglier( at least in my opinion!). I wanted something different.


See the picture below of our dining room windows with no frosted glass:


frosted glass spray paint

My 3 Reasons to Get Frosted Glass

I decided to try stenciled frosting glass for more reasons:

  • We wanted some privacy, but to get a glimpse of what happens outside as well.
  • Price was another strong reason to opt for frosted glass spray paint. I looked at stained glass, but the price was simply prohibitive for us. Just adding the stained glass panes, the labour to change the windows would have way too much money to spend at this point.
  • At some point we thought about window film, but they do not always they fit every personal taste. I would have gone with it, but patterns I could find for sale on the Internet were not what I was looking for and they didn’t match the rest of the room decor.You can see full review of energy efficient window film here.

Materials and tools Needed for DIY Window Frosting:

  • Glass cleaner
  • Paper towels
  • Masking paper, or any adhesive-backed film you can stick it on the window , trace the stencil and cut it
  • Sharp cutter or craft knife
  • Masking tape
  • Rustoleum Frosted Glass spray – Frosting spray
window frosting
  • Large stencil of your choice
  • Step 1. Clean the glass well with glass cleaner. Remove any dirt, wipe with paper towels and let dry.
  • Step 2. Using a printer, print the stencil you want. I found mine on the Internet, and I printed it on normal letter size paper.
    frosted glass spray paint

    I multiplied the small stencil by tracing it on a bigger sheet of paper with the same dimensions as the window. To transfer it on the masking paper, I chose a sunny window, fixed the big stencil on it andon top I fixed the masking paper.

  • Step 3. Transfer the stencil on the masking paper. I placed the masking tape( cut the size of the window panel) on top of the stencil, already placed on the window.
    Then I traced the design on the masking tape with a black marker. I started in the middle of the panel so I will have the stencil showing nicely on the whole window.
frosted glass spray paint
  • Step 4. Fix the masking paper with the stencil on it on the window you want to do frosted glass on. Stick the masking paper few inches at a time; smooth down as you unroll the paper. Try to get as few as possible bubbles. I got some, so I pierced them with a needle and then smoothed the surface.
    You want to get the masking paper to adhere right up to the metal frame of the window, so press really well at the edges of the paper.
  • Step 5. Cut the design with a cutter or craft knife. Because the stencil is already traced to the masking paper, now you can start cutting out the design with the cutter or Acto knife.
    This is the most consuming part of the project, but take your time to get an accurate cut of the stencil. The whole time spent here you will get it paid back in the end :).
window frosting
  • Step 6. Spray the Rust Oleum Frosted Glass Spray Paint.Spray through your stencil with Rust Oleum Frosted Glass. Follow the manufacturer instructions from the can: shake the can well and hold it 10 to 12 inches from the glass. Apply even layers in a side-to-side motion.
    Best way is to get thin layers to avoid drips. Wait for each coat to dry, about 20 minutes, before applying the next coat. I used 2 coats.Peel off the masking paper with the tip of the knife and enjoy your frosted glass windows!
frosted glass spray paint

These were the 6 easy steps on how to get frosted glass spray paint on a window. And this is how our dining room windows looked AFTER:

frosted glass spray paint

Contemporary Wall Decor

Contemporary wall decor is part of our times.
With its neutral color palette for walls, but bold accents, it takes full advantage of the structural elements in a house: exposed plumbing pipes, bricks or even air ducting.

They can all become a colored detail or blend with the rest of the walls.


Achieve A Contemporary Look


Elements of Design in Contemporary Wall Decor

    • The contemporary style wall color palette incorporates neutral colors, with white, cream, taupe or brown being used the most.
    • Mood is created by using a vivid color for an accent wall, boldly colored artworks or geometric prints or decorative pillows or rugs.
    • One of the most important design element is line: geometric, simple and clean. So, furniture has no complicated carvings and is regarded more as function than decoration. The same concept applies to lamps and fixtures.
    • Space: characteristic for the contemporary decor is the open plan with plenty of light and no clutter contribute to the feel of spaciousness.
  • Simplicity is highly regarded in contemporary decor. Furniture has smooth surfaces, there are no fringes on the drapes or floral prints on the walls.
    Accessories are here and there, living more space open, pieces of furniture are viewed as individual, accent pieces. So in contemporary decor…less is more.

Accents for Contemporary Decor:


    • Your first lighting choices in a contemporary setting should be either stainless steel,chrome or brushed-nickel lamps.
      Lights focus on specific well placed pieces and has a sleek finish.
      Lines for light fixtures are well defined, with no intricate carvings.
    • Wallpaper – if used – is not an elaborate patterned one, but more with abstract, geometric lines or natural look as a textured linen wallpaper.
      If you want to add some textures to the walls you can successfully use a bamboo or grasscloth wallpaper.
    • Most contemporary-style furniture is made from birch or maple light colored wood and combined with glass or metal. In contrast with the traditinal style, there are no carvings or antique finishes used, all furniture having clean lines.
    • Window treatments are not layered, have soft colors, but also, it’s not unusual to see bare windows.
    • Fabrics used are the ones with a natural look found in wool, cotton, linen, silk, jute, and add textural appeal.
    • Artworks are vividly colored with dark sleek metal or wood frames. If wood is used in a frame, it would carry the same tone as the one in furniture.
    • In a contemporary kitchen, there is no room for clutter. There are floor to ceiling cabinets for handy storage, ceramic tiles and stainless steel appliances.
  • In a contemporary decor, all rooms have modern storage space with closet organizers, underbed-storage, stackable containers.

Knock off Horchow Chandelier

So, the last week I finally did some pictures of my latest knock off: the living room chandelier.

When we moved in our house, there wasn’t any ceiling light in the living room. I have fallen in love with a Lucia drum pendant light.


Horchow has it for a whooping price: $650( on sale)that made it inaccessible to me.


But guess what?I found one a knock off version that is equally beautiful to me at Winners ( Canada). It’s the same size, it has 3 light bulbs and 4 adjustable rods as well. Instead of the burnished silver finish for the metal frame, the Winners one has an antique gold finish. If you can live with these differences( I can !!) you’re set.
And the price? Much better at 80 $. original price at Winners: $135.

Mine was priced that low because it was missing the light diffuser, as you can see in the picture above. It didn’t bother me at all because I’m sure I can come up with something to replace it. I have an 1/8″ acrylic sheet that will do the trick :).


I just love the sparkle of the glass crystals and at night, the light makes them glow.

This is how it looks now in my living room:

What knock offs chandeliers have you done lately?

“Read these tips on choosing paint colors the right way! “

You can have a fantastic look for your living-room, a revamped kitchen, a jazzy bathroom or a restful bedroom by choosing right interior paint colors for the walls of your home.


The range of colors is infinite, and paint allows you to be adventurous and creative in your choices.


Getting the perfect color for your walls and matching it with the rest of the house – furniture, window treatments and rugs – is possible without being a professional.


Follow these simple steps and you will create the perfect color schemes for your home decor and build your color confidence!


choosing paint colors

4 Simple Steps to Build the Perfect Color Scheme

Choosing Paint Colors The Right Way

Step 1. Choosing Interior Paint Colors: What’s Your Favourite Color?

Take the time to see what colors do you really like. See why they make you feel the way they do:

  • happy to start a new day,
  • relaxed and ready to unwind, or
  • energetic and willing to start a new project.


Your preferences toward a color or another can tell a lot about how you are and how you see life, how you make choices.
See how colors reveal your personality and how they can affect your mood.


Take pictures if possible, make notes, clip out pictures with colors that appeal to you. Put them on a “color board”. You will see a repetition in the colors you enjoy most.


Step 2. Choosing Paint Colors: Get to Know the Colors in Your Room

Discover your Space. Take into account the colors of furnishings, window treatments, rugs, floors, doors and trims. While you can change some of them at a later time, to complement the color scheme you chose, the others will remain the way they are.


The couch you have, that expensive mahogany sideboard, the all-house-through carpet, or the wood floors most probably will stay the same. They are “big ticket items”, and most of the people cannot change them too often.
Add their colors to your “color board”, as you will have to incorporate and make them part of your final color scheme.


With window treatments, door colors and trims you have two choices, either keep and take them into account with current color and add to your “color board”, or change them later to fit the new room color scheme.


Still feel uneasy about choosing interior colors? Try The Paint Color Cheat Sheets – the proven, tried and tested interior paint colors!



Step 3. Choosing Paint Colors: What Does Your Room Need?
Go through all these questions below, before choosing the interior colors for the room:

  • How do you want to feel in the room? Do you want to feel cozy, restful, energetic, happy?
  • How must the space function? Do you need an area for eating, hobbies, entertainment or studying? These days most rooms serve more than one purpose.
  • Are there any features in the room you want to reveal or hide? An accent color will draw attention to a feature, whereas similar tones will help disguise.
  • Check the light in the room. A south facing room might need a color to mellow it down a bit; a north facing one may need brightening with warm colors.

Step 4. Choosing Interior Paint Colors: Making the Final Choice

Now it’s clear for you what you like, how the colors make you feel, and what colors are “keepers”. This is the best time to go and pick the colors for the room.

Don’t go to the paint store bare-handed. Most probably you want remember the exact shade of green you decided to use.

Remember the “color board” we talked about in previous steps :)? This is the time to take it with you and pick the right shade.
Do you need to take another look at the color wheel chart to refresh your memory about what’s a shade or tint, or which ones are complementary colors? Check it here!

Understanding colors, choosing paint colors, and working with them, will grow the confidence in yourself that you can do it, and soon enough you would want to use paint to transform tiles, furniture, and even floors.
For the ones who haven’t decided yet on what color to choose, or do not have yet that confidence, there are some color palettes, considered “true winners”, because of their popularity over time: red, blue and white, yellow and green, to give only few examples. So, a stylish decor can be achieved using them as a reference.

Easy To Install Crown Molding

Crown molding adds the finishing touch to your walls and ceilings, giving more depth and definition to your room space. However, installing them by yourself can be tricky.
So, I put together few tips for installing crown molding, based on my experience with polyurethane molding.


You can read more about polyurethane molding and why we chose it here.


Questions to Ask Yourself:


  • Do you want an expensive crown molding or you have a tight budget to work with and you can settle for the less expensive ones?
  • Do you want to hire an installer or you have good DIY skills so you can finish the job by yourself?

My answer: In my case, we( me and my husband) were on tight budget and decided we will get the job done without having to hire a professional installer. So, the tips that follow are a result of our crown molding installation.

Plan the job
– I know you’re itching to start, but some good planning can save you headache and money down the road.5 Simple Steps to Install Polyurethane Crown Molding

        • – Decide how much to buy: Measure the length of the walls in the room( perimeter of the room).Tip: Allow an extra 10 percentage wastage. If you have a repeat pattern, allow more.
        • – Decide the size( width) of the crown moldingTip 1: select your width based on the height of the ceiling. For example, for a height of 9 feet, chose a molding with a width of 3-4 inches.

          Tip 2: “break” the rules if you LIKE a slightly larger one, but remember to scale the size of the crown molding with the size of the trims.

        • – Decide the style: for a contemporary look choose simple molding with less detail; alternatively a traditional home can get a more detailed crown molding, even a deeper one.Tip: as a general rule, avoid a crown molding with a repeat pattern for contemporary style homes.
      1. Tools you need:
        • – Compound miter saw
        • – Liquid nails adhesive( for molding and paneling)
        • – Wood putty
        • – Paintable Caulking and caulking gun
        • – Sanding block
        • – Nail gun and nails – optional for polyurethane molding installing
      2. Paint the molding strips before installation. Let them dry thoroughly before installation.Tip: polyurethane molding doesn’t need priming – and I loved it !!!!!. Molding strips come pre – primed( one of the reasons I considered it an easy to install crown molding!).
      3. Install – My husband built a crown molding jig – to make the cuts as exact as possible.TIP: The crown molding jig holds the crown molding safely in sprung position so you can cut it the way it hangs on the wall, only upside down.


        We used straight butt joints to join polyurethane molding and miter cut both the inside and the outside corners. Here is how molding will look for an inside corner:


        TIP: When you’re doing the cuts, remember that polyurethane crown molding is turned upside down on the miter saw. To ensure a tight inside corner, cut the molding a little longer by 1/8 inch and sprang it into place.

        We used a bead of adhesive at the top and bottom and at all joints. Before applying any adhesive, dry fit each piece of crown molding to make sure it fits properly.

        TIP: No need to use nails to attach them to the studs, as polyurethane molding is very light – we used some to have the molding flush against the wall, as our walls weren’t perfectly straight( nor the corners an exact 90 degrees). No need to find the studs either!! Yey – that was another reason to consider it for an easy to install crown molding as well!

        TIP: We used masking tape as a guide for the molding on the wall and to keep it in place after is mounted. After the adhesive has dried, we removed the masking tape.


      4. Finish

    Once all of the molding was in place, I filled all joints and holes from the nails with wood putty. After it dried, I sanded it. We caulked the top edges of the molding where it meets the ceiling with a paintable latex caulking. We didn’t need to caulk the bottom of it. In the end, I touched up with white paint where it was needed.


This is a photo of one of our bedrooms BEFORE our easy to install crown molding:


And the AFTER photo of the same room after installing it:

easy to install crown molding

White Kitchen Cabinets Makeover

This is a project we finished in December last year and I didn’t have a a chance to share it with you all.
Our kitchen cabinets are oak, good condition and good layout( I didn’t say perfect), but the finish had gone orange and ugly. Remember the 80’s? Yep, that’s exactly how they looked:

You know that oak is grainy, mine however wasn’t heavily grained, so I decided to try painting the kitchen cabinets myself.


Half of the project happened in our garage for the doors and drawers, and the other half( for the frame) in the kitchen itself, of course.


To get a professional finish I decided use Sherwin Williams Enamel Latex Primer and Sherwin Williams ProClassic Interior Acrylic Latex Enamel paint, semi-gloss.


For color, I went with Sherwin Williams Snowbound: a creamy white, not too yellow, but not a stark white either.


Step 1. Remove doors, drawers( and any hardware attached to them)
You ( and especially your family) want to have a functioning kitchen, so leave the contents of the drawers in the cubby holes created. They are loose, in plain view, but hey, they’re still usable for the month to come 🙂 !
Remember; you want to survive this reno!!

Step 2. Clean them( drawers & doors) thoroughly. I used old trusted TSP spray cleaner. Let them dry.


Step 3. Sand drawers and doors. My Sherwin Enamel Latex Primer specified that glossy surfaces should be sanded dull, to get an “exceptional adhesion”. So I did sand them along the grain of the wood. Then all of them got cleaned: back and front.It took some time, but it’s not the most time consuming part of the job.
Here there are my pantry doors being sanded:

Step 4. Paint drawers and doors: this is the worst part of the project( and I’m not lying: it involves painting on and on and on…).
Each drawer and door need to be painted with primer twice, for back and front. AND, after that , each drawer and door needs to be painted with paint twice back and twice front. I have 33 doors and 13 drawers( including the pantry), so the whole “assembly line” happened in the garage.


Step 5. Use tape to protect the walls and surfaces you don’t want painted and repeat steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 for the frame.
Now it’s a good time to get repaired nicks and fill any gaps you might have in the frame, using some wood filler.

After all the painting was done, I attached new hardware, as the drawers and doors didn’t have pulls and knobs.

This is the final result with everything back in place:

I will leave for another post how I gave some depth to the peninsula by adding molding, changed the old rolling doors below the sink with new ones to match the rest and replaced the wooden hood!

Few tips I learned along the way:
always start with the back of the door for both priming and painting; you want to end up with a perfect painted front door; if any marks would happen, they would happen on the back of the doors
follow manufacturers instruction for drying time. If it says it takes 5 days to cure, let it be 5 days. You cannot rush the process, or you would end up with nicks and marks in the paint.
use quality primer and paint. Sherwin Williams cost more but it was worth every penny. This paint levels so nice and it covers very well; and that was important as I used both brush and rollers. the finish is hard and resistant to every day use.
be prepared to have a mess in your kitchen for a month( give or take few days, depending on your daily schedule 🙂 – steps are easy, but the whole process is so time consuming!


Craigslist Dining Table: Before and After

Since we moved in our house we used the same dining table we had in the townhouse: a counter height square table with 4 stools.

We needed a bigger table: it had to be round and have that grey-brown color I like so much.


I found a round table on Craigslist. I bought it right away(for $20, yeah!!!). What I like most about it are the clawfoot shaped legs; they give the table personality and a little bit of a vintage style!
I was lucky with my purchase: the table is sturdy and it doesn’t need any repairs.
All I needed to do is to change the color from orangey to weathered grey-brown, and give the wood some texture.


This is table before:

Materials used:

TSP liquid to clean the table


cheap foam brushes

Gesso white

regular brush

Circa 1850 – Antique Paste Varnish

“Faux Effects Stain and Seal” in Walnut

Well, I wanted the look of chalk paint on my table, and the Gesso I use as primer for my paintings has chalk in it. I decided to go for a quick trip to Opus( the art store where I buy my art supplies) and ask some questions. It turned out they knew what I was inquiring about.


Final advise to me? Buy the Stevenson Gesso for my furniture re-finish project(it has more”tooth”). And that’s what I did:

But enough for now about gesso and chalk paint; promise I will get back with more in a future post!

For easier handling I disassembled the table: top and pedestal. I cleaned both parts with some liquid TSP and let them dry.

Then I painted them with grey gesso( white gesso mixed with few blobs of acrylic black from my art supplies), getting the texture I was looking for and the time-worn look:

And that’s the table top in the process of being gessoed( please disregard the round shadow in the photo, is my ceiling light( as I worked the whole project at nights and in the house):

You don’t need to strip or sand the furniture before gesso-ing. Gesso is a primer so it sticks really well to furniture and dries quickly.


Then I applied my “Faux Effects Stain and Seal” in Walnut, using foam brushes; I wiped off the excess with rags. The number of coats will determine how dark or light the table will look. Let the table dry after each coat!
If you want to read more about the stain I used, you can click here.


This is the photo of the pedestal after being stained. I couldn’t use the table top pic – the photo got blurry!

Last step was to varnish it. Knowing the kitchen table will be used few times a day and get lots of abuse I decided to try “Circa 1850 – Antique Paste Varnish” for the final coat. This antique paste has a hand-rubbed look and a soft sheen to it. I did 3 thin coats( just in case!).

It is recommended for varnishing kitchen cabinets and it protects against heat and spills. So far so good! I don’t know if it can be bought in States, as this is a Canadian brand.

And the finished table:

Another “BEFORE and AFTER: 


I love how it turned out, with the grey-brown worn-out color. And I know it will look so much better after our vinyl floor will get replaced!!
What do you think?

Chalk Paint and Gesso

I was telling you in the post “Craigslist Dining Table: Before & After” that I will come back with more about using Gesso as a substitute for chalk paint.


How did it start? I wanted the chalky appearance for some furniture pieces I wanted to refinish( one of them as you already know is the Craigslist dining table find).
I looked “chalk paint” on the Internet and I found Anne Sloane chalk paint. Because of the price, shipping etc, I didn’t want to try it.My next step: do more research about DIY chalk paint recipes and find out how can I get the same look but at a cheaper price? So here’s what I found out:Sherry @ No Minimalist Here uses a mix of latex paint with either Calcium Carbonate, plaster of Paris or whiting powder; you can see the post here.Liz Blog uses un-sanded grout and flat paint in her homemade chalk paint.
First thought was that chalk is a main ingredient in chalk paint( dah!), but also in the gesso I use as a primer on my acrylic paintings.Some definitions:
  • – original gesso( gesso in Italian means “chalk”)is a mix of animal glue, powdered chalk or plaster and a pigment( usually white).
  • – modern gesso( the one you can buy in art supply stores) it’s a water-based mix of calcium carbonate, an acrylic polymer medium and a pigment( usually white).

So I decided to use only gesso, a blob of black acrylic paint( to get the grey color) and a little bit of water. I chose Stevenson gesso( bought at Opus store) because it has a bit more “tooth” to it.What I liked:

  • – it dries quickly, with a nice, chalky finish.
  • – I didn’t need to sand or prime my table before painting it with gesso.
  • – the stain I used on top of the gesso ( to get the grey-brown look I wanted) sticked with no problems.
  • – in my case, I didn’t wax it, because I knew the table will be heavily used every day; I went for “Circa 1850 – Antique Paste Varnish” for the final coat. This paste has a hand-rubbed look and a soft sheen; it protects against heat and spills.

So far, I’m more than happy with my choice of using gesso as a chalk paint to refinish furniture!

My Fireplace Makeover

Our corner floor-to-ceiling fireplace in the living room was in desperate need for a makeover. This is what I’m talking about:

I did this picture right after we moved: in mid-70’s style, the bricks were dirty, red colored and made the room look even darker than it was.

The easiest way to give it a quick makeover was to paint it. I went to Home Depot and talked to the guys there, to see what are my options. Their advice was to use brick paint and avoid the latex paint for walls.

Why? Latex paint used for walls doesn’t let the bricks “breath” so to speak, and the paint might peel off if you plan to use the fireplace during wintertime.

So, I went ahead and bought white Masonry, Stucco & Brick flat acrylic latex paint from Behr. It is self-priming, so…yoo-hoo…one less step for me to do :)!

Other materials I used:

-an old paint brush( don’t use a good one; it will get ruined by the end of the project)

-a little bit of grey, cream and beige paint to color the brick paint. These are the colors I chose, but it’s totally up to you to get different ones if you want.

-plastic sheets( to cover the parts you don’t want to get painted)

-a paint roller and a paint tray

-painter’s tape

-old cloth


3 Easy Steps for a Quick Fireplace Makeover

Step 1: Thoroughly clean the fireplace with a damp cloth. That should take care of all the dust and dirt. With a bucket of warm water and an old brush, clean all the grout and remove any loose mortar. Let it dry.
This step took most of my time, but I’ve learned( the hard way) that a good prep will save you lots of time and headaches!

Step 2:I mixed the brick paint with some of my black acrylic paint I use for my artwork, to make it a light grey. With the old brush I painted all the grout lines grey, and with the paint roller, I painted the bricks the same grey.
You can see the grey grout here:

This will be the “background”, the undercoat for the next 2 colors.

Step 2:With the sponge dabbed in cream paint, I painted the bricks here and there, in no particular order or pattern. I let it dry.

Step 3:For the last coat, with the sponge dabbed in beige paint, I did the same thing as in previous step, but chose different spots.

Why 3 colors? I wanted to avoid a “flat”, painted look and give texture and dimension to the fireplace.

And…ta-daa!! This is the result:

We also changed the colors of the walls from green to light cream, and replaced the old, stained carpet with bamboo hardfloors :). I painted the mantel white, to match the molding my husband installed. Yes, I know, I still have to get rid of the brass fireplace screen. It will happen soon!

Again, the BEFORE picture:

And the AFTER one:

Total cost of the project: $20 CAN( the price of the brick paint), as I had everything else already at hand.
I’m really happy with the end result and the “new look” of my fireplace!



“Update your house look with these panel molding ideas; this is your low cost-solution to enhance your decor!”

One easy way to enhance your decor is to add panel molding in your house.

You can get a timeless elegant look by creating frames for walls.

Sometimes the area inside the panels is finished in a different way than the rest of the wall: either is painted with a different color than the rest of the wall, or it might be used eith coordinated wallpaper.


Useful Tips and Tricks

    1. When measuring for panel moldings, keep in mind that spacing between panels, doors and corners should be consistent and balanced.
    1. Find the balance between what looks good and what works best for you, as there are no specific ways on what’s the width or height of your panel moldings.

molding ideas 01

    1. You can adjust the width or height of your panels depending on the place of furniture, paintings, windows, doors or electrical plugs. On the picture above you can see how the width of the panel molding was adjusted to nicely frame the doors.
    1. To estimate how much panel moldings you should buy, calculate the lineal feet for the perimeter of each room and add around 10 percent waste for miter and joint waist; round up to the nearest whole piece of molding.
    1. Paint all primed molding before you attach it to the wall: it will save you lots of time in long run and the mess paint does.
    1. Clean all surfaces free of dirt and loose particles with a clean cloth or sponge. Make sure area is completely dry before installing.
    1. It is important to establish a plan for the layout of the panels. You can choose between vertical or horizontal layout. If you have a feature wall in mind, start planning that one first.
    1. For vertical layout you can choose full height or split panels. On the picture above, two panels are full height, and the middle one is a split panel. Notice the use of the frames corners: they give more detail and definition to the wall. Some people prefer to include a chair rail also, and have panels either upper or lower the chair rails or both.
    1. Horizontal layouts can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical, with panels of the same or different sizes. One of the most used panel molding ideas: picture below shows horizontal panel molding with panels of different heights, all below the chair rail, creating wainscoting.

Steps To Install Panel Molding


Materials and Tools:

level, measuring tape, sandpaper, finishing nails, putty knife, hammer or miter saw, adhesive caulk, caulking gun, safety glasses

    • – Pencil mark the walls with horizontal and vertical pencil lines the height and width you want for the panels. To get a consistent height around the room, use a level to mark all the walls.
    • – Use the miter saw to cut the pieces for each panel. Cut each piece so that the panel will fit together like a picture frame.
    • – Panel corners can be mitered or you can use decorative molding corners.
    • – Apply a line of adhesive caulk along the back and top of each piece of molding to glue them in position on the wall. Secure each piece to the wall using a nail gun. If you don’t have a nail gun, you can use a hammer and 1 3/4-inch finishing nails.
    • – Work in a circle around the room to install each piece of panel molding.
  • – Apply latex caulking to joints, edges and along the edge of each piece of molding to fill any gaps between the wall and the molding. With a damp rag clean away any excess caulk and create a smooth appearance.